J288 The Journal for WSD

on the day I visited. They talked to visitors and worked on tapestries – an approach which really helped visitors

to appreciate the medium of woven tapestry and the way contemporary weavers work. Hilary Miller, Gwynedd Guild

Koishimaru silk dyed with hon-beni

Photos: Christina Chisholm

Beguiling Beni: Safflower Red in Japanese Fashion Until 31st March 2024 Japan room, V&A South Kensington, London

( hon-beni ). Other lengths of cloth demonstrated shades of mauve, pink and orange; achieved from beni by using different recipes. The unusual ‘heel-less’ boots on display had been coloured an iridescent lustrous green by applying beni rouge (a cosmetic) in several layers to form a thick coating which changes colour completely on drying out. Several prints demonstrated the historical use of beni to dye elite kimonos, underwear and for cosmetics. This small but interesting exhibition was well worth a visit. Christina Chisholm, Online Guild

A single display case, tucked away in the Japan section of the V&A, explored the use of safflower (known in Japan as benibana ) petals to produce a vibrant red dye used for food, clothes and cosmetics, and, unexpectedly, a metallic green via multiple layers of surface applied dye. The fabric samples were all dyed within the last few years. A very rich ruby red, historically only produced for the Imperial family, was achieved by dyeing a very fine silk cloth made from silk spun by Japanese silkworms ( koishimaru ) with pure safflower

Still Morning Joan Baxter

Heel-less boots dyed with layers of beni rouge

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Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers 288, Winter 2023