J288 The Journal for WSD

Shibori cube Janice Gunner

Aizome: The craft of Japanese indigo Embassy of Japan in the UK, Piccadilly, London 11 May – 28 July 2023 This exhibition was part of the on-going Japan-UK events programme organised by the Embassy of Japan in the UK and provided a concise story of indigo dyeing in Japan with work by both Japanese and UK artists. Indigo dye was introduced to Japan via the Silk Road about 1400 years ago and initially was highly prized and used for court garments in the Heinan period (794–1185). Subsequently, by the Edo period (1600–1868), it was adopted as the dye for working people’s garments and it has come to have a unique place in Japanese culture and society. Shibori, the resist-dye technique was documented from the tenth century and examples of the different types of shibori were displayed. Rhyannan Hall, a UK dyer who has trained in Japan showed Arashi shibori – patterns made by wrapping the cloth around a pole, compressing and tying it to create a resist when dyed. Emi Fujisawa, a Japanese textile artist, showed work which uses recycled garments or fabric. Naoyuki Asai has indigo dyed leather in a more free-form pattern than other techniques and also pearls. Some of Jane Callender’s meticulous stitched shibori designs were included, and a hanging by Rob Jones. He is particularly inspired by the link between tradition and innovation. Janice Gunner had created small cubes displaying indigo-dyed patterns. A series of videos complemented the display, showing traditional dyers in Japan. One company uses traditional methods on a small commercial scale and may dip fabric in the indigo vat 15-20 times, perhaps up to 30 times, to obtain the desired depth of colour. The indigo dye is derived from Sukumo - Japanese indigo ( Persicaria tinctoria ) which is traditionally fermented in large piles where it gets hot and is turned regularly before the dye vat is made. Arimatsu, in Nagoya province is the historic centre for indigo production. Key phrases used by the artists whose work was displayed included: randomness, tradition, innovation, richness and variety. The exhibition provided a good introduction to indigo and the shibori tradition. Hilary Miller, Gwynedd Guild Editorial note: For our readership, we have respectfully written Japanese names in the western format of forename surname.

Hanging Rob Jones

All photos: Embassy of Japan in the UK

Shibori dyed leather with (detail inset) Naoyuki Asai

Jane Callender - Detail of stitched shibori

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Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers 288, Winter 2023