J288 The Journal for WSD

Dyeing Yarn Naturally* Ria Burns Crowood ISBN: 9780719842016 RRP: £12.99

modifiers are fairly standard, but there are useful sections on techniques including solar dyeing and bundle (i.e. direct) dyeing. The chapter on indigo is interesting as it is based on natural ingredients, such as the lime/fructose vat and a salt rub fresh leaf method. The emphasis is on plant dyes that can be grown or foraged, or extracted from kitchen waste – it isn’t as wide a range as in some books but is a good starting point as most plants used are easily found or grown. This would be a good book to add to a dye library or as an introduction for someone new to the practice and wanting to take a sustainable approach. Hilary Miller, Gwynedd Guild

The author is a knitwear designer and maker who focuses on local and sustainable materials, so the emphasis in this guide is on natural dyeing sustainably. The format is similar to many other dye books, starting with an introduction to techniques and guidance on yarns and fabrics. She includes natural coloured yarns as part of the range of colour variation which can be obtained, along with mordants and modifiers. The range of mordants and

Maryanne Moodie’s Modern Weaver: Where Color Meets Loom* Maryanne Moodie Abrams Books ISBN: 9781419753022 RRP: £21.99 The title is somewhat misleading, as only weaving on simple frame looms is covered. It is really tapestry weaving for beginners, although mostly with a continuous weft and with many traditional tapestry techniques not covered. There are sections on design inspiration and colour. Looms are described only as frame, circular and cardboard, with clear instructions on making and warping a simple wooden frame loom; other tools needed are also listed.

Chapter one describes the basics of creating cables on a knitting machine. Each of the subsequent chapters gives a clear and detailed explanation of a range of potential solutions, together with exercises to produce swatches of each technique. The accompanying photographs and diagrams provide extra clarity. The author’s voice rings out from every sentence as he clearly sets out the problems and their solutions. I can imagine him at one of his workshops, explaining his ideas and seeing the dawning realisation on his students’ faces as they begin to understand. Time to get that knitting machine out of the attic, I think. Techniques, called ‘stitches’, are well described and illustrated. They include tabby, twining, bubbling, basket weave, loops, soumak and rya. There is an odd definition of passementerie as a fancy selvedge. Of the many colourful projects for Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced, over half are wall hangings; the others vary from coasters to necklaces and include three macramé projects. Again, the instructions are clear but have little about the design and colour elements of the project. Users of this book would probably soon want to advance their tapestry techniques or move on to rigid heddle or shaft looms, but no advice is given as to how they might progress. Resources listed are mostly from the USA, with a few from Australia and New Zealand. I feel the book would have very limited use in Guild libraries; it may be better suited to the school library. Judith Edwards, Eden Valley and Online Guilds

Machine Knitting Techniques: Cables* Bill King The Crowood Press ISBN: 9780719841934 RRP: £14.99 As an experienced hand-knitter, I have tried almost every type of cable over the years. However, my only attempt on a knitting machine, many years ago, was a disaster. Transferring the stitches was fiddly, the process was almost as slow as hand knitting, and the yarn became so tight that it snapped at intervals. So, I was intrigued to discover how this experienced freelance knitwear designer, author and tutor had overcome the issues.

Sarah A. Kelly, Durham Guild

35

Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers 288, Winter 2023